Who are Wine Critics Writing for?

I regularly read a half-dozen wine publications and follow an equal number of wine critics on social media.  They all provide a distinct view of the wine world, and I have an eager interest in their reviews, opinions, and recommendations.

Lately, though, I have noticed a few disturbing trends.

The first:  Tantalizing tasting notes, describing how a wine provides immediate pleasure and compliments a weeknight dinner. The tagline reads something like, “Here is a terrific wine you should try.” I take the bait and search for more information on the wine, only to discover that this “weeknight gem” would cost me $240.  Wait, what?  Who drinks wine like that on a weeknight? 

The second disturbing trend:  Critics trying to “one up” each other on social media. One critic recently posted on Instagram that he was enjoying a quiet night out with his wife in Napa.  Sounds nice, until I see they were drinking a $1,500 bottle of California Cabernet Sauvignon with their dinner.  Not exactly representative of the typical dinner – even in Napa (where a weekend getaway is now for the rich or foolish.)  The next day, another critic – also in Napa – posts a photo of himself drinking a $900 wine that came from a production of 60 bottles. Wines for everyone?  I think not.

The final – and most troubling trend:  Most wine reviews now emphasize pricy, high-profile wines. I was browsing through the reviews of a wine publication the other day and was appalled at the prices.  The first 5 recommendations ranged from $75 to $320, an average of $200!  Hoping to find some recommendations in a more reasonable price range, I checked the last page of reviews.  It featured California red blends, which ranged from $45 to $185, an average of $120.   

Do you see the common theme here?  Who is spending this much money on wine?  Or really, the more important question should be, who are these wine people writing for? 

To be fair, most critics and publications do provide reviews for wines they consider good values, but more and more I see their focus on wines priced well above $100.  Truthfully, I absolutely appreciate an exceptional bottle of wine – and these frequently come at a price that most people would not spend for a single bottle of wine.  Look in my wine room and you will see dozens of examples, but I save these wines for special occasions.

However, I am always searching for wines that deliver quality above their price – and I intend to post a lot of commentary related to these wines on this site. 

Here’s one… /https://winedownwitheric.com/a-g-fantino-2019-barbera-dalba-superiore/

And one more thing:  Don’t expect to see pictures of me swirling a $200 wine on a Tuesday night (unless it’s my birthday.)

Cheers.  Drink well.